Making
a Suit Jacket:
This is one of the hardest things you will ever have to sew, but
if you can master this, you can master anything. It's actually not as
hard as it looks though. Most people can sew pants. If not, proceed to
my article on the Greatest American Hero. Sewing pants is the same as
sewing leggings, except you leave the legs open and hem the cuffs of the
pants and the waist. No Biggie. You can even use the same pattern, I do.
But a suit
jacket....
Well, you
follow my instructions and decide for yourself how hard it is.
You
will need:
- Fabric
of desired color/style
- Thread of desired color/style
- Sewing machine and the skills to use it
Start by drawing a pattern similar to the one seen in (fig. C.1).
Make sure the pattern is long enough to reach from shoulder to knee. Note:
if you are making a trenchcoat, simply extend the length of the pattern
vertically and proceed as per instructions.
Pin this pattern to 3 layers of fabric and cut along
the lines (fig. C.2). You will have to make the measurements of your Mego
yourself. Be sure to add a 1/8" seam allowance. A good example to
study as a reference is mad monster Frankenstein or The Joker. Once you
have cut along the lines, you should have three copies of the pattern
(fig. C.3). Align the shoulders of the pattern as seen in (fig. C.3).
Although the drawing may not be clear, we are doing this so that one of
the three patterns will eventually serve as the back of the jacket, and
the other two will serve as the two halves of the front. True, we didn't
need all that detail in the front flaps, but it saved us from making a
second pattern, eh? Anyway, pin the shoulders of the patterns as shown
in (fig. C.3), now stitch the two shoulders that are pinned.
When that is completed, lay your garment down as shown in (fig.
C.4). Points "A" and "B" correspond to where the sleeves will be stitched
to the shoulder of the garment. Cut 2 strips of fabric of sufficient size
to be sleeves (get out that tape measure again) and stitch one end of
each to points "A" and "B" as seen in (fig. C.5). Note that the i-sides
of the sleeves are facing you. Now fold back the edge of the wrists toward
you and stitch the hem of the sleeves (fig. C.6).
Turn your garment inside out so that all of the I-sides are
facing you. Fold the sleeves down and align the edges of the jacket
as shown in (fig. C.7). Pin them in place and stitch along the ribs
of each side, beginning at the edge of the sleeve and proceeding toward
the hip (fig. C.7). |
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Okay, now with the Left Front Jacket Flap, fold the top edge
down toward you and stitch the top edge of the hem (fig. C.8). Now, with
that same jacket flap, fold it approximately one third over, lengthwise,
and stitch along the longitudinal edge (fig. C.9). Repeat for the Right
Front Jacket Flap.
When done, turn your garment right side out so that all of the
o-sides are facing you (fig. C.10). Now fold up the bottom jacket
edge until the jacket is the desired length. Stitch the bottom hem
(fig. C.11). Now you need to make the collar for the jacket. Cut a
strip of fabric that reaches at least from the inside edge of one
lapel hem to the other. Cut an identical piece. Now stitch the two
pieces together, turn it inside out, and do a top-stitch (fig. C.12).
Stitch this in place along the inside top edge of the garment as seen
in (fig. C.12). |
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Okay, now turn your garment right side out again. Fold the lapels
outward and make them stay that way by ironing a crease into them (fig.
C.13). Finish off the picture by sewing on a couple of pocket flaps or
small buttons from the fabric store. But I'll leave that to you to figure
out.
If you want to see an example of a suit coat I've sewn, either go
see my custom Two-Face or custom The Shadow. Both feature some of my best
tailoring.
So, until
next time.... Happy Customizing!
Next
Time: How to Sculpt your own Heads from Scratch!
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